Introduction

Welcome to our review of the Keller 1601 through dovetail jig. I purchased the Keller 1601 due to its ability to produce through dovetails with no setup/test cuts, it handles work pieces of unlimited width, and it does not use guide bushings (its cutters include guide bearings) to guide the cutters through its templates. After using the Keller for dozens of projects over the past five years, I highly recommend it for virtually any woodworker, hobbyist or professional. The Keller & Co marketing information and the many magazine articles that have reviewed it are right on--once you go through the initial assembly and setup, you can pump out through dovetail joints with no setup or test cuts. Let me touch on a few of these attributes:

Ease of Use
I found over the past five years (2000-2005), for the types of dovetailing I do (drawers, boxes, case construction), the Keller is hard to beat for ease of use. A few notes and arrows I scribbled on the Keller templates are all I or anyone needs to use it. Conversely, jigs like the Leigh require the user to refer back to the manual. My Keller manual, I swear, resides about 10 miles from our shop! By the way, I am no newcomer to the Leigh, having owned and used it for over 20 years, and I still have to refer to its manual for some operations.

Reduced Setup Time
I would not part with our AKEDA and Leigh dovetail jigs due to their versatility. However, due to their versatility, both jigs require time to layout the template fingers for each job, and the Leigh always seems to require one or more test cuts before proceeding to actual work pieces. For this reason, I purchased the Porter Cable 7116 Omnijig and previously, the Porter Cable Model 4112 to produce half-blind dovetails for drawers, since its fixed template is always set to go. Like the Omnijig, the Keller is also ready to go--no layout setup, no test cuts, just clamp it to the work piece and go!

What About Drawers
I typically use through dovetail joints for boxes and use half-blind dovetail joints for drawers. But often (especially kitchen construction), I use false drawer fronts which negates the key reason for using the half-blind joint. Consequently, I often use the Keller to produce drawers that employ false fronts. Another advantage of the Keller is the joint it produces is more attractive than the half-blind joint produced using typical 1/2" 14° cutters. I still use the Omnijig for "production" drawer-making or for drawers without false fronts. Oh, and I have also discovered how to produce a more attractive Omnijig half-blind joint.

Dovetail Jig Comparison
I originally wrote this article in 2001. Because I own and have reviewed some of the finest dovetail jigs on the market, I am often asked, "Which dovetail jig is the best?". That question is almost impossible to answer as there are so many variables. However, I wrote an article comparing the features of the AKEDA, Leigh, Keller, and Porter Cable Omnijig dovetail jigs, including a weighted ranking that might be of some help. But, be careful as you interpret the numbers. For instance, the Keller garnered a relatively low ranking, yet I use it as often as the AKEDA and more often than either the Leigh or Omnijig, and I highly recommend it. Ultimately, my choice of jig depends on the type of project, the amount of setup time I have, and so forth. Click here to read the dovetail jig comparision.

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Keller 1601 Assembly and Setup

The Keller Jig consists of two 1/2" thick aluminum templates that you must mount to backer boards. The jig comes with the necessary screws and washers. I followed this process:

1. I started with some pretty lousy lumber for the backer boards (cupped and twisted). Consequently, I had to plane and joint the two pieces of stock for the backer boards. I sized mine 1-1/2" x 4-3/4" x 24". The boards must be flat and the front face must be square to the top, long edge. I used spruce, but any stable hardwood, softwood, or plywood should do as long as it's flat.

   
   
   
2. The bottom of each template is factory-scribed to align the template to its backer board. The manual states that the distance between the tail template culls and the face of the backer board should measure 3/8" (.375). With the backer board aligned to the factory scribe mark, I had a different measurement so I decided to align the template by measuring rather than use the scribed line. In retrospect, I don't believe this dimension is critical, as long as the dimension is the same on the left and right sides of the jig. With the tail template clamped to the backer board, I pre-drilled the backer board for the provided screws and fastened the template to the board. I did the same for the pin template. These first two steps took about 20 minutes.
   
   
3. With both templates fastened to the backer boards you're ready to make your test cut and final adjustments to the pin template. The pin template backer board fastening holes are elongated to allow for adjustment. This adjustment is made one time or possibly after you sharpen your dovetail cutters. The tail template does not provide nor require any adjustment.
   
   
4. Cut several pieces of stock, about 10" wide for test pieces. I suggest that you use hardwood (i.e., hard maple or oak). I used MDF and pine for the test pieces and then found the fit to be too tight for oak.
   
   
5. Clamp the "tail" board into a vise and clamp the tail template to the test piece. I always assumed clamping the Keller templates to work pieces would be rather awkward. I was pleasantly surprised that the template/backer board balanced nicely on the work piece. Originally I clamped the workpiece to the jig using one-handed Quick-Grip clamps. I have since dadoed the backer to accept a 3/4" aluminum T-Nut channel that accepts a clamp bar, similiar to conventional dovetail jigs.
   
   
6. Mount the provided Keller dovetail cutter in the router.
   
   
7. Scribe a line on the front side of the test piece to mark the depth of cut. I do this by butting the "pin" board against the "tail" board, under the tail template and scribing the line using the pin board as the marking edge. Set the router on the template and lower the bit to intersect your scribed depth line. Unlike half-blind dovetail jigs, the depth of cut for through dovetails does not affect the dovetail fit. It only controls how far the tails/pins protrude.
   
   
8. Machine the tails on both ends of the board.
   
   
9. Mount the provided Keller straight bit in the router.
   
   
10. Scribe the first tail socket (gap between first two tails) onto the pin board. I used a pencil, contrary to the instructions of the manual. I agree with the instructions--you should scribe the line using a marking knife; I just couldn't get my marking knife between the tails! I only marked one tail/socket.
    
    

    

11. Place the pin template onto the pin board, lining up an appropriate finger of the template with the scribed line. The finger should "fit" within the scribed lines.
    
    

12. Repeat the previous steps to set the cutter depth and machine the pins.
    
    
13. Fit the tail and pin pieces together. On the first go around, the fit was way too tight. I moved the pin template back exactly .030" (using dial calipers to measure). The second test cut was still too tight. I moved the pin template back exactly .020". The third test cut was right on.
    
    
14. I then cut new pieces and started over. The joint fit perfectly.
    
    
15. It took me exactly 1-1/2 hours to mill the backer boards, attach the templates to the backer boards, and test and adjust the pin template. And again, I should not have to perform this setup until I drastically change the dimensions of the router bits (through sharpening).

Adding a Clamp Bar to the Keller

Adding a clamp bar to the Keller is simple to do and greatly faciliates using the jig. Such a clamp bar is even more useful on the Model 1500 Keller. The Model 1600 balances nicely on the end of the board, allowing you to apply the clamps with both hands. However, because of the Model 1500 two-sided design, it does not balance well (if at all) on the end of a work piece. Consequently, you have to hold it in place as you apply the first clamp. Here is what I did to add a clamp bar to the Keller backer board:

1. Remove the Keller template from the backer board.
   
   
2. Rout or dado the two faces to accept aluminumn T-channel. This channel is available from many woodworking retailers. I used T-channel that accepts 1/4-20 bolts, but in retrospect, would have chosen channel that accepts at least 5/16 bolts. The 1/4-20 bolts are a bit too weak--they work, but a larger diameter bolt would work better. Set the dados about 1-1/2" from the top edge of the backer board/bottom edge of the template (the template is not yet mounted). The dados must be deep enough so that the T-channel is flush or slightly inset. The channel cannot end up proud in regards to the backer board faces.
   
   
3. Insert the T-channel into the dados and screw them in.
   
   
4. Make a clamp bar out of maple, oak, or aluminum stock. I have several clamp bars of different lengths. I use the 10" bar the most. Drill the bar to accept your T-Channel bolts. My clamp bars are <> 2" wide and 3/4" thick. I have not faced them with anything. I did slightly round over all edges.
   
   
5. Now, you can mount and adjust the Keller template.
   
   
6. To use the clamp, I slip the clamp bar and bolts into the T-Channel, slide the template over the end of the board to be machined, and simply tighten the clamp bar knobs (I purchased knobs to go with the T-Channel bolts).
   
   

By the way, Keller sells a fast clamp set for the Keller jigs--it runs the better part of $100. However, even if you don't want to spend the $100, you may want to check out his fast clamp method--it is more elegant than mine. My method works well and costs almost nothing to implement. Note: I have since purchased and installed the Keller Speed Clamp set. The clamps are impressively strong and the setup works okay. However, and perhaps it is must my implementation, I find the clamps to be a bit of a pain to use. If I get to the bottom of the problem, I will include more information. If not, I will include more information!