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The following are "my" answers to questions I frequently receive by email.

120 Versus 220 VAC

Question

I'm not sure I want to go to the trouble or expense of installing 220V in my garage "workshop". Consequently, I am considering purchasing the 1-1/2 HP, 120 VAC version of the table saw.

Answer

Go with the 220VAC. Period. Even though a 1-1/2 HP saw will work with 120VAC, it will draw twice the amperage at 120VAC than 240VAC. Consequently, if your power cord is not sufficient or your wiring is not up to the task, you can starve your motor for amperage which will damage it sooner or later, you will not realize the full power potential of the saw, you'll trip breakers/fuses, or you'll damage your internal wiring.

Setting up 240VAC is generally not a big deal--most home breaker boxes are configured with two hots (out of phase) and a neutral. Wire the two hots, the neutral, and the ground to 240VAC outlet for your 240VAC requirements. Furthermore, if the saw has a 3 HP version, go for it. The extra power will power through ANYTHING.

The following is a clarification from Bill Boehme....

I agree that it is generally better to run the saw on 240 volts, but would offer different reasoning to do so. Your explanation stated that ... “you can starve your motor for amperage which will damage it sooner or later”. Actually, as long as the motor is running, it will not be “starved for amperage”. A motor draws whatever current is necessary to produce the necessary torque to maintain speed. The limiting factors on how much current the motor will draw, are the wiring circuit breaker rating, the motor’s thermal cutout (if so equipped), and the LRC (Locked Rotor Current) rating on the motor’s nameplate. What actually happens in situations where there is excessive wiring resistance is that the supply voltage at the motor terminals drops below the nameplate’s acceptable value (usually 105 VAC). When the available voltage falls, the motor can start to “slip sync” under load. This just means that the rotating armature can't keep up with the rotating magnetic field and begins to fall behind and is, therefore, out of synchronization with the 60 Hz power line frequency. The bad part of “slipping sync” is that the motor’s efficiency falls off drastically when this happens. Efficiency is the term that says what percentage of the input power gets converted to mechanical power. The remainder of the power is “lost” which means it gets converted into heat. In order to try to maintain synchronous speed, the motor will draw more current to produce the necessary torque. But, when the efficiency is low a large part of this current goes into heating the motor. So, you can see that rather than being “starved for amperage”, the motor is actually drawing MORE current than it would if operating efficiently. And that is what can lead to eventually damaging the motor.

Voltage drop in the wiring is not normally a significant issue – but it can be. A wiring run of 12-gauge wire that is 90 feet or less in length and drawing 20 Amps would result in no more than a five percent drop in voltage (about 5.8 volts). However, a motor should not be operated on a circuit in which its FLC (nameplate full load current) is that close to the circuit breaker rating. If it is a dedicated circuit for the tool, then the NEC or other applicable code should be consulted for breaker size. Otherwise, for a motor on a non-dedicated circuit, 15 Amps FLC should be the absolute maximum that you use on a 20 Amp circuit. For me, the most important issue is to have a circuit in which the motor’s FLC is well below the breaker rating. Normally the best way to accomplish this is to operate the motor on 240 VAC. This solves the problem of voltage drop in the wiring and also allows plenty of headroom for the breaker size.

The cause of the large surge in motor current during startup is often misunderstood. The current surge is the result of torque needed to accelerate the motor’s inertial load. Motors have an extremely high acceleration at startup - going from standstill to full speed in a few tenths of a second. The inertial load consists of the armature’s moment of inertia, the gear train moment of inertia, and the load moment of inertia reflected through the gear train. The torque that the motor needs is the product of the acceleration and the total moment of inertia and can be extremely high. Motor current is directly proportional to torque so it can be seen that there will be a very large surge in startup current.

Bill Boehme

Saw Blade Burning

Question

My combination blade burns the edges of work pieces when ripping. What can I do?

Answer

Here is a list of things to consider to prevent burning during rip operations:

• Adjust your rip fence so that it angles slightly away from the blade towards the back. A fence adjusted .003" away from the blade, front to back is typically suggested by blade manufacturers.
  
  
• Raise the blade so that a full tooth (or more) is exposed. If you still get burning, raise the blade a little higher so that one-half the depth of the gullets is exposed.
  
  
• Clean the blade. Pitch buildup can cause havoc with Forrest WWII and other combo blades.
  
  
• Feed the work at a faster and consistent rate.
  
  
• Use a rip blade rather than a combo blade when ripping oak, cherry, maple. Freud, Jesada, and CMT sell excellent rip blades for under $40.00.
  
  
• Use a splitter / riving knife behind the blade to ensure the wood does not close in on the kerf.
  
  
• Use a feather board to keep the wood up against the fence.
  
  
• The Forrest WWII is especially prone to burning because of their minimal side clearance. Also, for some reason, the WWII tends to build up pitch more than other top-end blades. I am now using the Inline / Ridge combo blade in place of the WWIIs and have not experienced the burning prone to the WWII.
  
  
• Keep the blade sharp. The key to the Forrest WWII is in its sharpening. Yes, the tip angle has some bearing on its quality of cut, but the bottom line is any blade sharpened for cabinetmaking (600 grit hone) will cut like a Forrest. A number of sharpening companies do a great job including Ridge Carbide, Forrest, and Cardinal. For other sharpening services, see our How To Sharpening Page.

Sharpening Bench Chisels, etc.

Question

How do you sharpen bench chisels, plane irons, and so forth?

Answer

I use the "Scary Sharp", Sand Paper method described in Fine WoodWorking, Issue #140 to sharpen my tools. This method leaves a super sharp, flat-ground edge. You can access the article online at the following web address: Getting an Edge with Waterstones, Oilstones, and Sandpaper, with the emphasis on the Sandpaper Method.

I follow the procedure with some variation. I use the primary grits described in the article (80,120,320,600)and 1200 for the finest edge. I use a leather strop with compound to obtain a mirror finish. Also, contrary to the author, I sharpen with the blade perpendicular to the length of sandpaper.

There are several great sharpening systems ranging in price from under $200 to over $1,000 that greatly simplify and reduce the time to sharpen your hand tools. See our Sharpening article for an overview of these systems.

The following are links to useful sharpening information:

• The WoodShop's Sharpening Hand Tools
  
• Fine WoodWorking Issue #140
  
• Scary Sharp 1
  
• Scary Sharp 2
  
• Scary Sharp 3
  
• Hock Tools
  
• Japan Woodworker
  

Gilliom Manufacturing

Question

Do you have the address for Gilliom Manufacturing (build your own woodworking tools)?

Answer

Gilliom Manufacturing
P.O. Box 1018
St. Charles, Mo 63302
636-724-1812

Two Table Saws?

Question

Why two table saws?

Answer

We do not have space for three. Actually, after using both the PM 66 and Grizzly for sometime, I like the luxury of two full size cabinet saws, but with the drawback of lost floor space. My original layout called for the saws to share one outfeed table, but that did not work out as well as planned. So now the Grizzly takes up space that was my assembling area. After we finish some key large projects I will try to rethink my layout. Space, like time, is often a commodity we don't appreciate until its gone. I have seen a few shops so filled with tools there was no way the owner could actually do any large projects. I don't want to fall into that trap. Now, if I can add on 20 feet to the west end......

Required Woodworking Tools

Question

What tools should I buy first?

Answer

That is a loaded question, but here is starter list in two categories: Power Tools and Hand Tools.

Power Tools

• 10" Table Saw and assortment of blades (Rip, Cross-Cut, Combo, Dado)
• Drill Press
  
• Router and Router Table
  
• Random Orbital Sander
  
• Drill Motor
  
• Circular Saw and quality combination blade
  
• Jig Saw and blades
  
• 10" Miter Saw with quality cross-cut blade
  
• Cordless/Corded Screw Driver
  
• 8" Bench Grinder and assortment of aftermarket grinding wheels
  
• 12" Planer
  
• Band Saw and assortment of blades

Hand Tools

• Basic handtools including Screw Drivers, wrenches, etc.
  
• Hammers (10oz and 24oz claw, ball peen)
  
• Hand Saws (Cross-cut, Rip, Dovetail, and Coping)
  
• Measuring Tape, 6", 12", and 24" Rules, Straight-edge, 12" Combination Square, 6" to 8" Engineer Square
  
• Block and Jack Plane
  
• Chisel Set
  
• Rasps and Files
  
• Scratch Awl and Marking Knife
  
• Marking Gauge
  
• Sharpening Stones, Scary Sharp setup, or sharpening system to sharpen plane irons, etc.
  
• Paint brushes
  
• Safety equipment: Dust masks/respirator, safety glasses, and so forth.
  

Finish for Butcher Blocks

Question

What finish should I use for butcher blocks?

Answer

Check out the Butcher Block Finishing topic at Home Shop Finishes

Custom Wood Molding

Question

I want to start my own business making custom wood molding for local builders. Any help, advice, where to find info on the web, and what to watch out for would be helpful.

Answer

There is a good market for custom moldings.

Not knowing you're capital and investment capability I don't know what level of machine and enterprise your looking for...Regardless, I can suggest a few machines on the low-end of the price scale:

• A great place to start is the Williams and Hussey web site. They manufacturer and sell a good, but small, molder/planer. The Williams and Hussey molder/planer has one unique feature: the support posts are located on only one side of the machine, leaving the adjacent side open; this allows you to run arches and virtually anything else through the molder.
  
  
• A good friend of mine produces beautiful moldings using the Jet Molder (13" molder/planer). I never got a chance to use it, but I saw his custom and standard moldings and was blown away by the quality.
  
  
• The Woodmaster and RBI molder/planers are popular in small shops. They have been around for a long time. They offer varible speed and have the capability to gang rip and mold/shape in one operation.
  
  
• A heavy-duty shaper can easily handle molding knives/cutters in the 3" range and can handle stock widths (heights) in the 5"-6" range by raisig the spindle. Though potentially more dangerous than "planer" style molders, shapers are versatile molding machines for two reasons: The enormous quantity of cutters available and the shaper's ability to mill arcs and irregular shapes.
  
  You can purchase a heavy-duty shaper like mine for less than $1000 dollars, though top quality shapers run two to five times that. Shapers are very reliable as there is not much that can go wrong except blow a motor which is unlikely (and is easy / quick to replace if indeed it goes) and replace the drive belt(s) once in awhile.
  
  Cutters are relatively inexpensive. Multiple profile insert cutters (check out Wisconsin Knife Works) are a great way to go and once you purchase the head, the cutters are relatively inexpensive ($50-$200). Good quality single profile carbide cutters run $100 and up. The disadvantages of a shaper include:
  • Potentially dangerous, which can be lessened by employing motorized stock feeders, hold-downs, custom fences, and guards
    
    
  • Involved setups (can be difficult or time-consuming to duplicate)
    
    
  • Requires operator skill to setup and to operate
    
    
  • Like most "low cost" solutions, complicated moldings often require multiple passes for both front and rear faces. Shops that mill large volumes of moldings often setup multiple shapers to complete the various facets of one molding style. Just because a shaper can handle wide (tall) stock, does not imply it can do it in one pass.
    
    
  • The price of cutters, cutter heads, and motorized stock feeders can easily equal or exceed the cost of the shaper.

Of course, the large molding shops tend to use molder/shapers that are huge and run in the $15,000 to $100,000+ range. Such machines can run thousands of board feet per day, producing the finished molding in one pass. Note that lower cost machines described above may not be up to milling large volumes of work, day in and day out.

You also need to line up a cost-effective source for lumber, appropriate for molding. It has to be clear, free of defects, etc. Chances are you'll start with rough-sawn lumber and plane it to the thickness required for each molding run. I would check around and look for the source used by large molding firms. Check out the Cabinet Maker magazine web site, it's a great resource for small businesses.

Question

Is molding spelled moulding or molding?

Answer

Either spelling is correct, depending on where you're standing. Molding, to mold, and molder are typically the American spellings; moulding, to mould, and moulder are the British spellings. For instance, the Williams-Hussey site uses the molding spelling. The Woodmaster site uses both spellings. But for Americans, the verb is mold, as in to mold. A molder molds molding with a molder. And who says we can't have fun here!

Thinning Minwax Polyurethene

Question

What can I use to thin Minwax Polyurethane? And what is the ratio?I have a HVLP spray gun.

Answer

Pros use a viscosity cup to determine the flow rate. I have one but typically don't use it for Minwax Poly. Minwax is considered a fast-drying poly, this simply means it has more solvent/thinner than standard varnishes. Consequently the finish is pretty thin to begin with. With that said, I would not (and do not) thin Minwax Poly when spraying. However, if you plan to wipe it on, thin it to a ratio of 50-50 (poly-thinner) for the first coat or two. Thin it 60-40 or 70-30 for the final coat(s). You can use naptha or mineral spirits to thin Minwax polyurethene. Naptha dries faster, and some say it dries clearer than mineral spirits. I use both and have not noticed much difference in clarity, though naptha definitely drys faster than run of the mill mineral spirits. When using very quick drying varnishes, like the Sherwin-Williams product, naptha actually caused the finish to dry too quickly for my tastes.

Jointer Troubles

Question

When I joint work pieces, the last few inches tearout. What can I do?

Answer

Snipe and end tearout is common with jointers. There are three key issues that may be involved:

1. The Operator. If you have lots of experience with jointers, move on to item 2. Otherwise:
   • Get some jointer operator instruction. There are numerous books and magazine articles regarding jointer operation.
     
     
   • I pass boards through the jointer applying pressure on the infeed side until the last 6-10 inches, then I smoothly transfer weight and pressure to the outfeed side. Applying pressure on the infeed side for the last couple of inches almost guarantees snipe and tearout.
     
     
   • Don't take deep cuts. Most jointers are capable of deep cuts, but again you risk tearout on the unsupported end.
     
     
   • Joint in the correct direction based on grain pattern.
   
   
   
2. Properly setup your jointer. You want to make sure the infeed/outfeed tables are aligned properly. Gary Rogowski wrote a landmark article on the subject, originally published in "Fine Woodworking" #124, June 1997) that describes how to setup a jointer . Click here to read it. Email me if the link expires. Click here for another similar, but shorter article.
   
   
3. Watch out with highly figured woods and woods like oak, ash, and hard maple. These woods tend to tearout and chip out, regardless of your technique and tool setup. Pass the wood past the cutter head slowly to avoid problems. It may be necessary to crosscut the board a bit long before jointing so that you can cut off the snipe/tearout section following jointing. I had a cheap Sears jointer that had spun the cutter a zillion rpm that actually worked better with tough woods than my Delta jointer. Oh well....

What Drill Press Should I Buy

Question

What Drill Press should I buy?

Answer

The easy answer is the best one you can afford. I generally recommend the Delta 17-9xx series such as the 17-900, 17-925, and 17-965. For the money they're hard to beat. The Grizzly G9974 and G7947 drill presses appear to be good values, but I have not used either one. If you go with the Delta, you won't be sorry, at least for woodworking and light metal work.

Dust Collection

Question

What Dust Collection Do You Employ - What are your recommendations?

Answer

Our shop is very deficient in this area. What I do and what I recommend are two different matters. Here is the good and bad of our shop in regards to Dust Collection:

Good:

• Dedicated Shopsmith Dust Collector for the Shopsmith disk and belt sander.
• Festool Dust Extractor for collecting dust from the Festool Circ Saw, Festool 150/3 sander, Festool OF1000 Router, and the AKEDA dovetail machine.
• Fein Turbo II for use with our router table and for general cleanup.

Bad:

• Worn out, 1 HP dust collector. It is the typical 600CFM taiwanese DC, bearings are shot. Need to replace bearings or replace unit. Frankly, the performance of 600 CFM models is marginal at best.
• Planer - No Dust Collection. Planers require a dust collector to help with the mountain of debris and to prevent debris from embedding in the work piece being planed. We need to make a hood for the unit--just have not done it (it's only been 10+ years).
• Table Saws - I have hoses connected to the PM66 and the Grizzly has a dust collector port, but I generally don't connect them to the our portable 600 CFM DC.
• Miter Saw - Bag only, no dust collector connection. The bag actually does a pretty good job. (Is my nose growing?)
• Routers - The Festool OF1000 is covered with its built-in dust collection port and the Festool CT22E dust collector. I use a Leigh RVA occasionally with our PC routers. It helps, but gets in the way so I don't use it much.
• Scroll saws - Our Hegner has a dust collection connection, but I don't use it. Our Delta has no easy method of collecting dust, accept on our pants.
• Band Saw - Our Delta 14" band saw has a connection, but I generally don't use it.

My recommendation is to employ a central conventional or cyclone dust collector with a minimum of 2 HP, with appropriate piping to each stationary machine. Use blast gates to control air flow and limit loss to unused machines. I also recommend using portable dust collection for portable tools, especially circular saws, routers, and sanders. The Festool system is excellent. Fein and others have similar systems, though perhaps not the wide range of tools with dust collection as Festool offers. If your portable tools do not have dust collection ports, make that a priority in future purchases.

In regards to a central dust collection system. Our biggest problem lies in where to run the pipes so they do not interfere with shop activity. Since we did not plan for dust collection, we're kinda stuck at the moment. We are considering running the pipes in the attic of our shop, but I still have problems with access to the table saws.

After a proper dust collection is installed, I recommend that you install one of the ceiling mount, central air cleaners. They may be of some help without first setting up a dust collection system, but if your machines are generating tons of dust, you're probably collecting it in your lungs as it passes you towards the air cleaner.

Square Miter Gauges

Question

How Do You Square Miter Gauges to the Saw Blade?

Answer

After I have squared the fence of the crosscut device (miter gauge, crosscut fixture, sliding table) to the blade using an accurate square, I use one of the following methods to get it right on: The Five-Step Method and the In-Line Industries Method (as described in the Dubby User's Guide). Click Here to view a Flash demonstration and read about the Five Step method, the more accurate of the two methods. Click here to view and read about the In-Line Industries method. Look for the text "To square the fence to the blade", and make sure to click through the Flash slide show.

Cutting Crown Molding / Compound Miters

Question

How do you setup a miter saw to cut crown molding? Do you have a compound miter table?

Answer

Depending on the height of the crown molding and the height capacity of your miter saw, you may be able to cut the molding without the need to use compound angles. My Delta miter saw handles crown molding heights up to about 4-1/2". With moldings less than 4-1/2", I setup a stop to hold the molding vertically in place up against the fence and then cut it at 45°. Since my saw is not a compound miter saw, I have to miter taller moldings on the Table Saw. If you have a compound miter saw, you can lay the molding flat on the saw and cut it on a compound angle (set the saw to a cutting angle and bevel appropriate for the slope/angles of the crown molding and the wall angle). DeWALT has published a great article regarding both methods at: Cutting Crown Molding with DEWALT Miter Saws

Grizzly 1023S Extension Table

Question

Do you have plans for your Grizzly 1023S extension table?

Answer

The Grizzly 1023S Classic Fox fence rides on the table top. Consequently, you need to purchase or build an extension table to support the fence to the right of the cast iron extension wings.

There is nothing special about my extension table. I used a portion of an office desktop salvaged during the remodeling of an office. You can purchase a similar top from a variety of sources: Restaurant supply houses sell 1-1/4" & 1-1/2" thick laminated tops for around $20. You can purchase a router table top from woodworking outlets, but they are considerably more expensive and generally require that you purchase an insert plate. You can also make your own to from 1-1/4" particle board (or laminate two 3/4" thick sheets) and laminate it with the laminate material of your choice.

I did not want a router top with an insert, so I simply drilled/countersunk the top to accept the router base and then drilled a 1-3/4" hole for the cutter. I routed a deep recess in the bottom of the table so that the router bits would extend adequately above the table.

I ripped and crosscut the table top to fit between the rails. Then I drilled/countersunk each fence rail in two places for mounting screws to screw the table to the rails. It is easier to do this with the rails off the machine. Then I simply attached the extension table to the rails using a straightedge to ensure it was even with the table saw top/extension wings.

I also built a fence that attaches to the table saw fence, but have since discarded it. I plan to add a fence similar to the Marc Sommerfeld design I use on our standalone router table. Designs / plans for router fences that attach to table saw fences are a dime a dozen.

Miter Gauges

Question

I have read your miter gauge reviews...which one do you use/prefer?

Answer

Good question. Currently I am using the Osborne EB-3 almost exclusively for crosscuts of dimension lumber on our PM66 table saw. David Osborne & Sommerville graciously provided us with the Osborne EB-3 for review (01/2003) and after just a few weeks using it, I don't want to return it! It is fully adjustable, strong, extremely accurate, is easily fitted to either side of the blade, has a long fence/stop extension, and has an overall great feel to it. Though I have not installed it, it comes with an abrasive strip that you can apply to the face of the fence to prevent work pieces from slipping--a problem I seem to have when crosscutting especially hard material. The triangle feature prevents fence flex but perhaps more importantly, allows you to dial in an angle with seemingly perfect accuracy, even for uncommon angles. I also like the push-to-engage detent feature, rather than the gauge "hitting" every detent from 0° to x°. Also, you can position the fence as close or as far away from the blade as you desire. In the EB-3, Osborne Mfg addressed all but one of my key concerns about the EB-2. The only fault I have found so far, and it is slight, is the stop. It appears to be the same stop included with the EB-2 and it is a bit weak, meaning if you jam a board against it, it will flex slightly. Also, with all the other high-tech and innovative features of the EB-2/EB-3, I would have thought the stop would be micro-adjustable. One other nit-pick of mine is that aftermarket miter gauges like the EB-3 and the JDS Accu-Miter don't provide an easy method of attaching a sub-fence. I just can't get myself to drill that beautiful aluminum face........

So suffice it to say, that since we received the EB-3, I use it interchangeably with the Dubby and the Festool MFT/ATF combo for virtually all of our crosscut tasks and the EB-3 is the sole miter gauge I use on our PM66. I plan to post a review of the EB-3 in late January 2003 or early February 2003.

A bit of history.....I purchased a JDS Accu-Miter gauge quite a few years ago and it has served us well. It has been reasonably accurate, but I had to install a retro-fit kit and do some other fiddling around to make it so. JDS was very helpful and upfront during this process. I have since decided I don't like the push-pin style miter gauges--they always seems to have a little play at each stop. If I don't have to return the EB-3, I have a used, but well maintained JDS Accu-Miter for sale.

We purchased an Osborne EB-2 a few years back for a second miter gauge, but returned it primarily because it was not adjustable. We replaced the EB-2 with an Incra2000 which I did not like and we have since given it to my father. We purchased the standard WoodHaven miter gauge but returned it primarily because the head would not tighten to my liking. After talking with Mark Duginske and Woodhaven, I returned it. We then purchased the Incra1000 for our Grizzly 1023S and have been reasonably happy with it, though I have to admit I don't use it much.

Saw Blades

Question

What do you suggest for moderately priced combination blades. I understand Forrest are the best, but their price is a bit high?

Answer

I primarily use the Forrest WWII and the new Inline Industries/Ridge combination blade. You can purchase the Forrest WWII for around $95 at Forrest Retail. The model I use is the W21024 10" 40T Standard 1/8" Kerf blade. I have several Forrest blades and they perform well given that your saw is setup correctly and you keep the blade free or residue. Due to their geometry, they tend to burn more than other blades and I find they require sharpening more frequently than other blades I have used. Also, I tend to get a lot of chipped teeth. Something I never see on my other blades. Forrest customer service and their sharpening service is tops, right there with Ridge Tool.

In October 2002, I purchased two Inline Industries combo blades. I like the Inline blade (made by Ridge Tool) because it has a set of flat top teeth that allow the blade to make square dados. Also, the Ridge blades have much more carbide than the Forrest WWII and tend to burn less than the WWII. I believe the normal price of the blade is around $90, but the show price is probably less.

A recent Fine Woodworking article rated the EVERLAST "ASTRA WOOD" blade very highly and runs about $70. I have not used the blade, but it might be worth looking into. Check it out at: Everlast Table Saw Blades.

Finally, I purchased a Freud F400 several years ago (Jan 2000) for our Grizzly TS. I purchased it for $60 and it works very well and is quieter by design than standard blades. Current price however is probably in the range of the Forrest.

For more information, check out our Saw Blades web page.

Setting Up a New Table Saw

Question

I am considering purchasing a Grizzly. I read your review/set up. I was very impressed with your set up and initial test of the saw. Do you have a set procedure you use to set up/ test a new saw?

Answer

The procedure goes something like this:

1. Upon receipt of the equipment, make sure the shipping box/materials are not damaged. Our import shaper was delivered in a box that was in bad condition and indeed the shaper had been severly damaged. Unfortunately, the shipper would not take responsiblity and dumped the shipment on the tarmac! Note ahead of time what your recourse is if the equipment is delivered damaged (i.e., do you refuse shipment, accept shipment and make note on the shipping manifest, etc.)
   
   
2. Read the owners manual and inventory all of the components, screws, washers, and so forth. The imports have a reputation for missing parts. The owners manual should outline the basic steps for setting up the saw.
   
   
3. If you purchase a Grizzly or other import shipped directly to your door/dock, chances are it will be layered in cosmolene; clean it off using Mineral spirits. If you purchase a Delta/Jet/PM/General from a local dealer, it will be covered with perhaps only a light oil that should also be cleaned using mineral spirits.
   
   
4. Most saws are delivered with the base and top mounted, but the fence rails are in a separate container. I suggest on the Grizzly and Jet that you remove the top (make sure you diagram where the base to top washers/spacers were, you must replace them exactly as they came off, otherwise, your bevel cuts will be waaayyyy off!). With the top off you can tighten and grease all of the key components (trunion, threaded rods, etc., and verify that pulleys, belts and the like have the correct tension, alignment and so forth.
   
   
5. Remount the top, placing the washer spacers in the correct locations. Mount a blade or flat sanding disk. Align the top miter slots to the blade using the procedure documented in our Table Saw Calibration web page. If you have a dial indicator, use it to measure blade runout. Calibrate and set your internal carriage 90 degre and 45 deg stops.
   
   
6. Mount the fence rails and adjust the fence to be parallel with the miter slots and blade. Depending on the blade you are using the fence should be right on parallel or set the fence to angle away from the blade (front to back) by .001 to .005". The method of adjusting the fence varies from fence to fence. Biesemeyer fences are easy to adjust as they provide two allen screws, one each end of the fence head. You can toe the fence in and out by running these screws in and out. On the grizzly, you need to add an extension table to the right of the saw table for the fence to ride on. See our Grizzly 1023S article for more information about this.
   
   
7. Wire a plug onto the power cord.
   
   
8. If you have not installed your blade, do so. Purchase a good combo blade (Forrest WWII, In-Line Ridge Carbide, Everlast, etc. See my site for a list of blade choices).
   
   
9. Set up your blade guard and riving knife. Make sure the riving knife (splitter) is centered with the blade. Make sure the blade guard moves up and down freely and that the kickback pawls work (run a board into them and try to pull it back towards the front, the pawls should prevent the board from moving towards the front of the saw).
   
   
10. Power on your saw. Listen and feel for any excessive vibration. Sometimes belts on the imports are kinked or otherwise defective. Let the saw run for several minutes. Assuming nothing is burning, howling, vibrating, you're probably in good shape. Stop the saw.
    
    
11. Adjust your miter gauge, sled, crosscut table to the blade. See our Table Saw Calibration web page for instructions on how to perform this calibration.
    
    
12. Apply your rip fence measuring tape and calibrate your fence hairline indicator to it. Simply run the fence up against the fence (rh side of blade), and adjust the indicator to sit on the beginning mark of the tape. set the fence to 5" and rip a board. Measure the board. If it is right on, rip it to 4-1/2", and check it. I continue this several times. Of course if it is off on the 1st cut, I adjust the indicator as necessary. Once set correctly, you should never have to measure between the blade and the fence for rip cuts.
    
    
13. Wax the top with hard Johnson's Paste Wax & have fun.

Repairing Poly Sags

Question

How do I remove a polyurethane sag / drip?

Answer

Unfortunately, most polys have a low solids content thus they are apt to sag or drip on vertical surfaces unless you apply extremely light coats. Before I answer your question, when applying poly with a brush on vertical surfaces I work bottom up and after I have applied the coat, after a minute or so, I return with the brush (drained of its varnish load) and drag out any drips or sags. When I do this I see brush marks, but a good poly will flow together and the marks will disappear. I find that Minwax fast dry poly is difficult to brush due to its very low solid content and fast-drying nature. In fact I don't use any of the fast drying polys.

There are two common methods for removing fully dried drips and sags:

• Block sand the sag/drip. Some finishers block sand with mineral spirits or water.
• Scrap the sag off using a utility razor blade or cabinet scraper.

Once you have removed the sag, refinish.

Scroll Saw Blades

Question

Which brand of scroll saw blades do you use? Where do you buy scroll saw blades?

Answer

I use a variety of blades including blades from Olson, Flying Dutchman, and Advanced Machinery. The Olson 2R and 5R are probably the blades I use the most due to their low cost and reliable cutting. The Flying Dutchman blades (Mike's Workshop) are also very good, and only slightly more expensive than the Olson blades. They have a great reputation among scrollers. I agree that they are sharp and cut very cleanly. However, perhaps due to my heavy handiness, they seem to break sooner than Olson blades. The Advanced Machinery (Scroll America) blades are also very good. I have been using the PB/AP03 for many years.

I purchase my blades from the following three sources. I have found them to offer the lowest cost and best service. If you're spending more than $2.50 a dozen for blades, you're buying them from the wrong place! The Wooden Teddy Bear offers gross prices in the range of $1.45/dozen for Olson blades. I have seen the same blades sold elsewhere for $5.00/dozen.

The Wooden Teddy Bear The best price and service I have found for purchasing Olson scroll saw blades. Be careful, there are at least two "Wooden Teddy Bear" web sites--this is the one that sells patterns, blades, and so forth.

Mike's Workshop Mike is the source for Flying Dutchman blades. He is just a regular guy who decided to serve as a distributor for these blades. I don't think you will find a better price on quality blades than Mike's Flying Dutchman blades. Blade price include shipping and handling resulting in overall lower cost than AMI and others.

Advanced Machinery Their Scroll America web site offers two lines of blades, their own and Olson. Their prices are competitive, service is good, though I have found that for Olson blades, the service (quick delivery) and price of The Wooden Teddy Bear can't be beat.

Fretboard Finish

Question

What finish is used on Guitar Fretboards?

Answer

Depends on the type of wood used for the fretboard:

• Generally solid hard (hard rock) maple fretboards are finished with a catalyzed lacquer or urethane varnish. However, the constant fingering, fretting, and string abrasion will wear through any such surface finish. Consequently, guitar builders/luthiers often recommend a simple oil finish such as tung oil or pure lemon oil.
  
  
• Rosewood and ebony fingerboards are often left unfinished. Several guitar builders I have contacted suggest that the fretboard be sanded to at least 2000 grit and then finished with a hard paste wax. Others recommended a special fretboard oil or pure lemon oil.

Router Table Vs. Shaper

Question

How does a router and router table compare to a shaper?

Answer

This is a hotly debated topic in which even the experts cannot agree. I believe a well equipped shop is best served with both a shaper and a router table. The enormous variety of low cost router bits for edge profiling and such are too good to pass up. Thus I believe a shopmade router table with a Sommerfeld type fence is the best way to go for a router table. Then add an import or domestic 3HP shaper ($800 - $2000), a shaper insert cutter head (Sommerfeld-CMT has a nice one), a cope/stick cutter set, and a panel raising cutter, and you're pretty much set.

Anyway, here is my take on the shaper vs. router wars, in list form. Note that the shaper I am referring to is a typical 3HP HD shaper, such as those available from Grizzly, Jet, Delta, and PowerMatic in the price range of $800 to $2000. The router motor described refers to a variable speed 3 to 3-1/2 HP unit such as the Porter Cable 7518.

• General Construction. As you can see from a general construction point of view, the shaper is much more robust than a typical router table/router setup.
  
  
  • Shaper. A shaper consists of a cast iron undercarriage, continous-duty induction motor, 3/4" to 1-1/4" spindle, large roller and ball bearings supporting the drive shaft, sheet metal base, and cast iron tables. The unit weighs approximately 350 lbs. The induction motor runs quietly and can be run continuously day in and day out without failure. The large spindles and bearings support small and large cutters without deflection and vibration. The spindles can handle multiple cutters. Speed is adjusted by pulleys, generally two to four speeds between 6,000 RPM and 12,000 RPM are offered.
    
    
  • Router and Router Table. A router table does not contain an undercarriage, the router motor is generally a universal motor not classified as continuous duty. The router collet handles router cutter shaft diameters of 1/4", 3/8", 8mm, and 1/2". The drive shaft is supported by small bearings classified for high speed use. The base is generally constructed from plywood, particle board, melamine, or MDF. The table is generally constructed from laminated particle board or from phenolic. The light construction of the router is not suitable for large cutters and indeed vibrate heavily when pushed to the limits. Speed is controlled electronically, ranging from 10,000 RPM to 25,000 RPM.
  
  
  
• The shaper's large induction type motor will outlast most homeshop users. It has no brushes, it is quiet to operate, is very powerful (HP and Torque), and is rated for continuous duty (they can be run all day, day in and day out). Routers on the other hand have universal motors that were never intended to be used in continous duty. Routers are loud, have brushes that must be replaced frequently if used continuously, etc.
  
  
• Shapers have inbuilt accurate/precise height adjustment mechanisms. Router tables do not unless you add a router lift such as the Bench Dog cast iron lift that runs about $400. Such lifts add weight to the router that some router table inserts cannot support.
  
  
• Shapers have large cast iron tables. Shaper tables do not warp, scratch, or deterioate over time like typical laminated wood composite router tables. Furthermore, a cast iron table easily accepts power feeders, guards, and other devices. Also, you can retrofit a sliding table to most shapers without a second thought. with the robust shaper table and fence (and fence adjustablity), it is very easy to use the shaper has precise horizontal edge jointer.
  
  
• Shapers can handle both large and small cutters. Some experts feel that cutters larger than 2-1/2" in diameter should not be used with routers due to the light construction of the router and general safety issues. The shaper's large diameter and long spindle can support heavy loads without deflection or vibration and can handle multiple cutters. For instance, you can place both the cope and stick cutters on a shaper spindle and make both cuts by simply raising and lowering the spindle. Furthermore, shapers handle large molding heads and insert heads simply not available for routers.
  
  
• Shaper cutters outlast router cutters. This may be debatable, but the carbide on shaper cutters is generally much larger than the carbide on router cutters. Sharpening services routinely sharpen shaper cutters but many are not equipped to sharpen router cutters.
  
  
• Shaper motors are reversible. This allows you to feed the stock through the shaper in the direction you choose. This is key for some styles of cope/stick cutters and also allows you to feed work so that you are always shaping with the grain downward to reduce tear-out.
  
  
• Shapers run slower than routers and thus handle large diameter cutters safely. However, they are not suitable for small diameter router bits. Changing speeds on a shaper can be more difficult than a router table. Our shaper requires that you remove the rear panel and move the drive belts from one pulley to another. A pain since I generally leave the shaper close to a wall. Conversly, the router motor speed is adjusted using a sliding switch easily accessible from the front of the open router table.
  
  
• Custom shaper knives for cutter heads are widely available for shapers and are non-existent for routers. Until recently, very little in the way of insert tooling has been available for routers.
  
  
• Changing cutters on a shaper is easier than a router, though changing shaper spindles requires access to the rear panel/door of the shaper and is a bit of a pain to do.
  
  
• Router cutters/bits are generally less expensive than their shaper counterparts. Many router bits are available from home centers and even industrial supply houses that do not offer a wide array of shaper cutters.
  
  
• Router motors can be used hand-held. Depending on the router you choose for the table, an additional router base might be prudent to simplify switching from hand-held to router table use. Some router tables provide quick attach methods to facilitate using one router for both functions.
  
  
• If your shop lacks space, a table saw extension can be modified or replaced to function as a router table.
  
  
• Most U.S. routers run on 110VAC, not requiring the 220VAC of a 3HP shaper.
  
  
• A shopmade router table and 3HP router combination runs about half of the cost of the least expensive 3HP shaper.

Check out Pat Warner's comments regarding the Shaper vs. Router issue at the following links:

• Pat Warner's Router vs. Shaper article
  
  
• Pat Warner's Router Table Article
  
  

Check out Phil Bumbalough's comments regarding the Shaper vs. Router issue at the following link: Phil Bumbalough's Comments

Table Saw - Molding Heads

Question

Is it possible to produce base/crown moldings on my table saw?

Answer

There are several methods, including molding heads available for table saws that you could use to produce base board and crown moldings. Before I continue that thought however, the manufactured moldings you see at the local home center are produced on molding machines that cut the profiles in one pass. You won't be able to do that with the table saw. Why? One, the cutters on the molding heads are narrow, thus they only cut a small part of the profile. Two, you cannot take a full cut in one pass. Generally a cut of 1/8" or less is recommended per pass.

Consequently, it takes a lot of passes and time to produce these tall moldings on a table saw. By the time you factor in the wood (must be clear, straight, etc.), the cost of the molding head, your time, etc, you're generally better off purchasing the molding.

However, if you're bent on using a table saw molding head check out the following:

• Sears Craftsman sells several simple molding heads and kits with a wide variety of cutters. I own the cheap model and it works pretty well. I used it more on our Radial Arm saw than I do now on the table saws. One trick that greatly extends what you can do with this type of molding head is to run the work through the cutter on an angle as you would to make cove moldings with a table saw blade.
  
  
• Sussex Saw and Tool sells a three wing molding head. Looks a lot like the Craftsman.
  
  
• CMT offers their CMT Crown Molding Head and router bit set. Don't know if there is any provision for base board molding, but the set does produce great looking crown molding. It does require additional setups for the included (6) router bits and still has the limitation of only taking 1/16" per pass. Also, you have to fool around with cove fences and the like.
  
  
• The Magic Molder from Wood Tech Tooling has received good reviews. You can view it at The Molder, The Cutter Chart, and a third party site that carries it
  
  
• ShopNotes Issues 58 has a good article on Table Saw molding heads that might be worthwhile to read.

A more expensive but perhaps more professional method would be to use a Planer/Molder as sold by Jet, Woodmaster, RBI, Powermatic, and Sears. I am very familiar with the Jet model and it does an outstanding job, but expect to spend $800. The Sears portable unit runs about $500.

Finally, routers and shapers are used to produce moldings. A huge variety of router bits, shaper cutters, and shaper cutting heads exist that do a fine job producing moldings.

Saw Operations

Question

What does the term resaw mean?

Answer

Resawing is one of five basic saw operations/cuts:

Resawing: Typically performed using a table saw or band saw, resawing is used to slice two thinner thicknesses of board from one thicker board. For instance, if I need 1/4" thick material for a jewelry box, I resaw a 3/4" thick slab in half, producing two thinner slabs 5/16" ((3/4" - 1/8) / 2). I use the table saw, but as seen in the previous calculation, the kerf of the saw blade is 1/8" so you lose a bit of material. However, a good table saw blade will leave a smooth surface that requires only a small amount of planing. The band saw blade cuts a much smaller kerf, but leaves a much rougher surface requiring more planing. To resaw, I use a Freud 24 tooth rip blade on the table saw or a 1/2" blade on the band saw. On the band saw, I can resaw upto 6" wide material. On the table saw, I can resaw about the same, however, I do it in several passes--never try to resaw more than 1" at a time on the table saw.

Ripping: Typically performed using a table saw or band saw Ripping is performed to split one board into two (generally with the grain), lengthwise, producing two boards narrower than the original, but the same length. You can rip on the band saw or table saw, but the table offers greater control, width capacity, and a smoother cut. A few table saw precautions: 1)Make sure that the length of the board is longer than the width. 2) Employ a splitter. For best results, joint one edge and rip with the joint edge against the fence.

Crosscutting: Crosscutting is performed to cut one board into two (Generally cross grain), widthwise, producing to boards shorter than the original, but the same width. Crosscutting is typically performed on the table saw, miter saw, or radial arm saw.

Miter: A miter cut is performed to cut an angle across the width of one or both ends of a board, such for picture frames. On a table saw, you angle he workpiece. On a miter saw or radial arm saw, you angle the work, lying flat on the saws table, or between the table and the saw's fence for crown moldings. A compound miter requires that you angle the workpiece and tilt the saw blade, with the work flat on the saw's table. Typically performed using a table saw, miter saw, or radial arm saw.

Bevel: A bevel is performed to cut an angle across the edge of a board such as for a jewelry box. A standard bevel is typically performed by tilting the blade and passing the workpiece past the blade, lying flat on the table with the miter gauge set to 0 degrees. However, if the workpiece is narrow enough, you can place the board on edge and angle the miter gauge. Generally most saws will accomodate up to 3" with the board on edge, but an unlimited width if you tilt the blade. Typically performed using a table saw, compound miter saw, or radial arm saw.

Water-Based Finish Air Bubbles/Air Entrapment

Question

I have a small woodworking/cabinet shop in SE Michigan. Due to health hazards, environmental concerns, combustible hazards, etc., we have gone to waterborne finishes. I am very happy with the quick dry times and lack of ambering, but am having a few problems. I have tried dozens of products: WB laquers, VanAqua products, J E Moser products, and on and on. Believe it or not, I seem to have the best luck with Minwax Polycrylic. It also helps that it is reasonably priced and readily available. I am using a compressor driven HVLP gun. I have finally tweaked everything so I no longer have any dry spray problems or orange peel. The only thing I cannot seem to fix is the multitude of very tiny air bubbles. I have tried adjusting product volume, air pressure, air volume, pattern size, etc. nothing seems to have much effect. The only thing I have not looked into is the amount the procust is thinned. I've been adding about 10% water to the product. It slows the dry time enough to let it level out and makes it easier to spray. Could this ratio be part of the air bubble problem? I'd really appreciate any input on the subject

Answer

First of all, you're on the right track. One of the most common and vexing problems with water-based products are the air bubbles, or air entrapment. Any fast-drying product tends to have problems with air bubbles, but air bubbles are more inherent to water-based products because of the way they interact with the pores of the wood, literally forcing air/gas to escape. Allowing or causing the finish to dry too fast or allowing air movement during the initial drying process is the most common cause of air bubbles--the finish just does not have enough time to flow and level before it sets up. The following are a few time-honored “air bubble” remedies that I have compiled from my experiences and others..

1. Prevent drafts or moving air during wet film setup, at least until the finish has leveled out. In the case of water-based finishes, give it an hour and then ventilate the work area.
2. Control your Air temp & Humidity. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
3. Experiment with different film thicknesses.
4. Do not sand with sterated sand paper and make sure the surface is properally prepared.
5. Experiment with your spray gun settings.
6. Don't use HVLP turbine type spraying units, as they tend to warm the air and cause the finish to dry too quickly. Use HVLP conversion guns, or conventional sprayers
7. Depending on the product, thin the finish with water--start at 10% and add more if needed. Some products suggest you use their retarder. Best to follow manufacturer recommendations.
8. Lightly dampen the surface, with a sponge or a water bottle sprayer. The water will travel through the film keeping it wet longer, so the bubbles have more time to break.
9. If you are brushing, do not use a sponge or foam brushes, do not shake the finish, and propery prepare the surface. If the grain raises, it will cause a rough surface that will cause air bubbles as you pass your brush over the rough surface.

Shop Lighting

Question

I get a lot of questions regarding shop lighting. Without question, I am not an expert by any means on the issue of lighting. So the following lighting hints come from experience and a little research....

Answer

1. Fluorescent lighting is cheap to buy and maintain and they last 10 times longer than incandescents. I purchased shop lights for $9 per fixture, with bulbs.
2. Fluorescent lighting is cheap to run. Fluorescent lighting runs about 1/4 the cost of incandescent lighting.
3. Incandescent lighting provides a better woodworking light, but if not situated properly, introduces shadows. Daylight-balanced fluorescent bulbs are great, but are expensive and generally are not sold in bulk at your local home center.
4. Fluorescent lighting does not like the cold. Mine flicker like crazy until the shop and the lamps warm up.
5. Here is one formula for calculating lighting needs:
   
   

   One watt of power is considered adequate to light 2 cubic feet of space. Therefore, one 75-watt bulb will light 150 cubic feet of space. Given an 8-foot ceiling, one 75-watt bulb will only light a floor space of 4 1/3' x 4 1/3' (150 ÷ 8 = 18.75. The square root of 18.75 is 4.33. So the dimensions of the adequately lighted area, given the eight foot ceiling, would be 4.33' x 4.33' x 8'.)
   
   So you need approximately a 2 40-watt bulb fixture for every 4 feet of space. I have 17 fixtures for a 25' x 25' shop, and still need spot lighting for some tasks.

6. Use spot lighting for workbenches and areas that need more intense light. I use a variety of hanging halogen and clamp on incandescent lamps.
7. I wired our shop with three separate and switchable lighting circuits. I Often run with only one or two circuits to save energy.
8. Use Ohm's Law to determine how many lights you can run per circuit: watts/volts = amps. So 1200 watts / 120 v = 10amps. If you have a 15amp 120vac circuit you can handle approximately 40 40-watt bulbs with a little headroom.

By the way, if you're not familiar with Ohm's law, here is a chart of the Ohm's law formulas, purloined from the "http://www.the12volt.com/" web site:

Solid Wide Boards for Drawers

Question

I have a 9" wide board of soft maple for drawer sides. Can I use 8" wide drawer sides out of it or do I need to rip the boards in half and glue them up. Also on dovetails do you put the outside of the tree grain to the inside of the drawer or to the outside.

Answer

You are wise to consider wood movement and growth rings when constructing drawers from solid wood.

First, always start with lumber that is properly and equally dried.

Second, dovetails should be marked and cut the same day the lumber is milled (planed and dimensioned). After milling, the freshly exposed and freed lumber tends to do all sorts of nasty things (warp, cup, split) unless mechanical devices (dovetailing for instance) are in place to prevent such nastiness.

Third, on single boards wider than 4" or so, orientate the workpieces so that the concave side of the rings is on the outside faces of your drawers. (I have seen discussion that growth ring orientatin really doesn't matter). Or, rip the wood and rejoin alternating the growth ring patterns. The grain pattern should point from front to back of the drawer side.

Fourth, consider using plywood or other man-made, more stable material for drawers sides on large/deep drawers.

Cutting the Toe Kick for Cabinets

Question

How do you cut the toe kick for cabinets? The table saw leaves an overcut and the jig saw cut is not as straight and neat as I would like.

Answer

I use several methods:

• With an excellent jig saw (i.e., Festool, Bosch) and blade, you should be able to cut out the notch precisely and cleanly.
  
  
• Use the table saw using a two-cut process but do not lie the workpieces flat on the table--cut them vertically. I clamp two sides of the cabinet together and clamp them to a wide and tall extension mounted to a miter gauge and clamp a right-angle helper to the leading edge. I make a cut (approx: 3-1/2") cut in one direction, and rotate the sides 90 ° and make the second cut. Works great but the sides are a bit unwieldly to handle.
  
  
• Some pro shops use a bandsaw to cut the notches but unless you have a extension large table, this can be very unwieldly. Also, unless you have a mammoth bandsaw, you must mark the cut on both sides of the material since you will have to flip it, not just rotate it. Use a wide blade (1/2" - 3/4") for best control.

You may also design your project to not have a traditional toe kick, a design that is gaining popularity with the European influence in cabinetry:

• Make the cabinet as a box and fasten it to a 2x4 base. Apply molding or facia around the base for appearance-sake.
  
  
• Make the cabinet as a box and use European style levelers to lift box off of the ground.
  
  
• Allow the sides of cabinet touch floor without front toe kick notch. Wrap molding around cabinet. Bandsaw or jig saw an arch or opening in front molding to provide the "toe kick" opening.

Finally, here are a few suggestions from a cabinet maker web site:

• You can set up the table saw to make each cut, and allow the over-cut to show on the hidden side of the workpiece. You can also set up a hand router (with appropriate fixtures) to perform the same operation relatively efficiently.
  
  
• You can abandon the notches altogether. Build a sub-base for runs of cabinets from waste ply strips or low-grade ply cut specifically for this purpose, or use European leg levelers. Here are the advantages:
  • You can incorporate toe space under ends of cabinets. Your customers will appreciate the toe room, and decorative end panels are easily accommodated.
  • Installation is typically faster, especially using the levelers, which work with equal effectiveness in Euro and face-frame construction.
  
  
  
• We use our bandsaw. An L-shaped plate mounted to the table as a guide for the edges of the workpiece allow us to make one cut, spin the workpiece, and make the other. Very simple, very fast, with a good quality cut.

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