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Introduction

Welcome to our review of the Dubby crosscut fixture. My experience with miter gauges is that they are inheriently flawed. Either they are not accurate, don't support work pieces well, don't return to the indicated angles, provide a fence that is too low or flexes too much, etc. I have made many crosscut sleds using particle board-MDF-Plywood bases, wooden runners and fences. I typically set them to a fixed 0°/90°. They are easy to build, accurate, and safe to use. I have also made a copies of the Dubby fixture including the moveable fence for cutting angles. Frankly, I had no use for standard miter gauges except for lap joints, finger joints, and other joinery operations that require dado blades.

Several years ago I broke down and purchased a Dubby crosscut fixture. It works better than my shop-made sleds primarily because it has a better fence, stop, and it has the angle lines. For reasons I cannot really explain, I purchased several aftermarket miter gauges. I do use them, but I still perform 90% of my crosscutting using the Dubby or a shop-made sled. Cost: $170 (approx.) Manufacturer: In-Line Industries 661 South Main Street Webster, MA Phone: (800)533-6709, (508)949-2968 Fax: (508)949-0859 Web: In-Line Industries Email: Email In-Line

What I Like About the Dubby Cutoff Fixture

• It is easy to adjust and setup. Since you run the fixture through the blade, the blade edge of the base provides a "zero" reference.The angle lines are now etched on a thin piece of stainless steel which is recessed into the platform. Thus, setting up the Dubby is painless! You can retro-fit older Dubbys by buying a new platform ($40-$50). You cannot retrofit only the steel piece since they have slightly changed the location of the pivot point of the fence and thus the lines are different.
  
  
• The angle settings are very accurate and returning to 0°/90° is a snap. It always returns to exactly 0°. The spacing between the lines is so wide, that you can achieve great precision without thinking. I doubt there is a more accurate method for setting work piece angles. Assuming you set the fence correctly to 0°/90° to begin with, the angle lines are right on everytime.
  
  
• The fence is robust, long, and tall. No flex whatsoever! The new fence is made of extruded aluminum and has a great feel to it. My original fence was made of hardwood which frankly I thought was fine but evidently Inline felt they had to go with the Aluminum fence to match the cloned competition.
  
  
• The stop is excellent. The stop is mounted to a long steel tube that provides a stop range of approx. 50". It also provides a simple method of fine-tuning. I have added an additional stop of 1" square aluminum tubing that allows me to set a stop anywhere between 45" and 110".
  
  
• The provided small toggle clamp you mount to the fence is great. It supplies just enough pressure to hold everything from molding to large panels down against the platform. Unlike clamps on conventional miter gauges, it doesn't raise the miter bar out of the slot since it is clamping the work piece against the base/platform.
  
  
• Excellent Manual. The instructions for squaring the Dubby are the best I have seen in any sled/miter gauge manual.
  
  
• The base supports the bottom of the work piece. This reduces much of the error that is introduced when moving work across the table using conventional miter gauges.
  
  
• It handles both small and large (wide and long) work pieces with ease. I cut everything from fine moldings to 24" x 60" panels with the dubby. Try cutting a large panel or long work piece with a conventional miter gauge. It just doesn't work. Hint: When you trim the sled base, keep the cutoff. It's useful as a support for long work pieces, assuming the work piece hangs over an extension table.
  
  
• It is simple and a proven tool. I don't give a lot of credibility to magazine tool reviews, but the Dubby has placed at the top of every review I have read.
  
  
• The standard and optional videos show how to setup and use the Dubby for various projects. The videos are excellent and of value for virtually any woodworker. Plus, Jerry Cole is a real treat--it's great fun to watch and listen to him.
  
  
• Great customer service. In-Line has always bent over backwards to make sure their product works for me.

What I Don't Like About the Dubby Cutoff Fixture

• Cannot change it from one miter slot to the other. You buy it as a right or left model. Of course this is the norm for left/right crosscut sleds.
  
  
• Chances are you cannot use it on two different makes of saws because the distance between the miter slot and blade will be different.
  
  
• You need two Dubbys (One Left, One Right) if you want +/- 50° capability. Of course you can cut all miter angles on one side (just flip the piece over), but some woodworkers make a big deal of this feature.
  
  
• Does not have a ruler/scale. However, the setup video shows proper use of tape measures and techniques that reduce the need for a fixed ruler/scale. Also, most miter gauge scales only work when cutting at 0°/90°.
  
  
• One of the advantages of a crosscut sled is the zero reference provided by the sled fence and base after you pass the unit past the blade at 0°. However, once you pass the Dubby through the blade with the fence set to something other than 0°, the fence no longer provides the zero reference (the blade end of the fence is cut away at an angle). Even worse, the work piece is no longer supported right at the cut line, so you'll see more chipout on the trailing edge of the work piece.
  
  Jerry Cole, In-Line Industries responds....

  The wood end of the Dubby backstop is not only replaceable, but also adjustable. When I round off the end of this piece initially (doing angles), I usually set the backstop on zero, and adjust the rounded end of the end slightly past the edge of the platform. If I raise the saw blade, and square the piece at this point, I can then slide the end of this piece to the edge of the platform (at any angle), and have zero clearance on the outside edge of the cut.

• The height of the base reduces the maximum height you can cut by approximately 1/2". Of course this is true of any crosscut sled.
  
  
• The mylar strips stuck to the bottom of the base work (allow the sled to slide easier) but wear over time. However, for $5.00 In-Line will send you new bottom strips (and the strip with the angle lines if you have the older version Dubby).
  
  
• My extended stop bar rusts. In-Line replaced it no questions asked.
  
  
• Chips get wedged between the platform and the fence. If you're not careful, the chips can cause your cuts to be off of square. The bottom, leading edge of the fence should be slightly rabbetted or chamfered to prevent this annoyance.
  
  
• Like any crosscut sled, it doesn't work with dado blades if you buy a version that works opposite of the arbor tilt direction.

A Warning!

Crosscut sleds are generally safer than typical miter gauges because of the backstop and base support they give to the workpiece. However, most sleds prevent the use of the typical blade guards, which is probably why many professional shops employ overhead guards. Suffice it to say, be extra careful when using a crosscut fixture without a blade guard. The best bet: Use an overhead blade guard or a fixed blade guard on the crosscut fixture.

1. Don't let the workpiece rotate even a fraction of a inch when pulling a crosscut fixture back after a crosscut. If the work piece catches the blade on the way back, you will see first hand the absolute worst type of kick-back. I know, it happened to me! The middle finger of my left hand is 5/8" shorter due to such a kickback. Only the grace of God saved me from losing my head--literally, as the shelf that I was crosscutting flew past me like a Frisbee. To prevent this, the width of the Dubby miter bar is intended to be approximately .003" less than the width of your miter slot. When you make a cut, push the Dubby forward and towards the blade. On the return, pull it backwards and away from the blade.
   
   
2. Don't let the workpiece drop on top of the running blade. Sounds like common sense doesn't it? But when you're tired or being assisted by someone else, it is easy to let a workpiece slip and fall on the blade.

Excess...Two Dubbys In One Shop

Our Two Dubbys..I often use the "Grizzly Dubby" on the Powermatic, but with the fence in the leading position for cutting large panels. Using the Dubby in this manner requires an outfeed table, otherwise the sled and workpiece will find themselves on the shop floor. In-Line Industries recommends a second Dubby to simplify crosscutting miters.

The Bottom Line

The Dubby fixture angles are very accurate and completely repeatable. It supports the work piece from the bottom and along the long, sturdy backstop, thus there is little chance of the work piece moving through the crosscut. Definitely a tool that home and pro woodworkers will appreciate. Not only is it accurate, but it is easy to use and fast to setup. I do 90% of all my crosscutting with this tool and would not work without it.

By the way, I get lots of emails regarding sliding crosscut tables and why I don't have one. Sliding crosscut tables are great, no doubt about it. But there are some drawbacks, especially for the homeshop woodworker:

1. They take up lots of space.
2. Contrary to common thought, they require maintenance. The major Sliding Table Saw manufacturers suggest that the sliding table be recalibrated for square/accuracy everyday! They must be lubed, cleaned, etc.
3. The fence is often in the way when ripping large panels. Unless it is easily removed and recalibrated......
4. Can be ungainly (too large) for small work.
5. Decent sliding tables cost $600 and up.
6. May require that you hacksaw your rip fence rails, reducing ripping capability to the left of the blade.
7. If you’re in the habit of crosscutting to the left of the blade, you’re out of luck.
8. Using a combination of right / left crosscut sleds has its advantages, something impossible to achieve with sliding tables.
9. Etc.

Rating:

out of 5!

Calibrating Crosscut Fixtures/Sliding Tables

There are numerous ways to calibrate a crosscut fixture to be square with the blade. Unfortunately, using a carpenter's square or even a machinist's square does not always cut it. There are three methods that are regarded as being the best practice methods for squaring a crosscut device such as the Dubby. Below, in the section titled "Making Your Own Crosscut Fixture", I describe and demonstrate the method suggested by In-Line Industries. However, other manufacturers recommend other methods such as the Five-Step method. (For absolute accuracy, I recommend the Five-Step Method.) Click Here to read about and view demonstrations of three methods for calibrating crosscut devices (miter guages, sleds, sliding tables).

Making Your Own Crosscut Fixture

These are the steps I follow to make a fixed fence crosscut fixture (Click Here to view The Woodshop Crosscut Sled Web Page): Rip and crosscut your base to the desired dimension. I typically use particle board or MDF, 3/8" to 1/2" thick. A good dimension is <> 24" x 24". Run a shallow dado the length of the base for the miter bar, using your fence for accuracy. Run the dado so that approximately 1" of the base will be cut off when you mount the miter bar and run the sled through the blade. Rip and crosscut a piece of hardwood (maple, ash, oak) for the miter bar. It should fit in the miter slot with no slop. Drill and countersink holes in the base centered above the miter bar dado. Screw the base to the miter bar. Place the base in the saw's miter slot and run it through the saw. This provides a "zero" reference.

Rip and crosscut material for a fence. I have used everything from Melamine to maple. The key is it must be flat and straight. Screw the end of the fence closest to the blade to the base. Drill and countersink an oversized hole through the base at the far end and run a screw through the hole into the fence. This will allow you to adjust the fence during the next step. By the way, screw the fence to the leading edge of the base for fixtures used to cut wide panels. Screw the fence to the trailing edge for cutting normal sized workpieces.

JoinTech SmartMiter

Have you noticed the copycat competition is starting to heat up for In-Line Industries. I have not touched the JoinTech SmartMiter but several owners give it high marks. I have a few concerns about the SmartMiter:

• The unit's placement of the backstop/fence limits the maximum width of the workpiece to approximately 13 inches.
• The price. Egads, $260 is a lot to spend on a crosscut sled!

However, it has features that look good on paper. Here is the JoinTech marketing information, edited by yours truly:

• Automatic, zero-blade clearance at every angle.
• Two hundred angle settings from -50 to +50 degrees in positive, 1/2 degree, "detented" increments.
• Dual Measuring System accurately measures short point or long point of a miter (inside or outside length) at any angle with anti-parallax cursor.
• Micro-adjustable, Full-range, gapless & lockable flip stop.
• Full Measure, 48" Incremental Fence. All operations that normally require both a left and right hand sled can be performed by one SmartMiter.
• Jointech patented Lead Screw Technology provides repeatable accuracy of +/- .001".
• 1/2" Thick, high-pressure laminated, solid Phenolic, extension ready, CNC-machined base.
• Accuracy and Safety unobtainable by any Miter Gauge.

An update. I had a brief opportunity to handle and play with the JoinTech SmartMiter and speak with the Jointech reps at the Chicago Woodworking Show. The rep I spoke with agreed with me that the SmartMiter is not intended as a "crosscut sled", but rather a better "miter gauge". As such, the SmartMiter truly is a better miter gauge. Here's what I like about the SmartMiter:

• Provides both backstop and base support for the workpiece.
• The aluminum backstop is flex free, nicely finished and provides extension and measuring capability to 48".
• Provides possibly the best stop mechanism ever seen on a miter gauge. The stop uses the "leadscrew" technology to provide incredible fine adjustment control.
• Provides both 0° to 50° and 0° to -50°. Since it does both +/- 50°, you can do all of your mitering from one side of the blade and from one sled not two (you would need two Dubbys to acheive the same functionality).
• I like the detents for every half-degree, but wondered if they might interfere when trying to fudge a miter setting.
• I love the handle at the rear of the base, it provides a great overall feel to the device.
• I love the clamp but it should be a standard accessory, not an option!
• It is extremely well finished.

I also like the innovative method of adjusting the SmartMiter to work with a variety of saws and blades. One of my complaints of the Dubby is that you cannot use it with multiple saws, unless by some miracle, the miter slot to blade distance is identical on both saws. Jointech got around this by making the miter bar adjustable, laterally, on the bottom of the base! Incredible! You can adjust the placement of the miter bar several inches so that it accomdates virtually any saw. And by the way, you don't trim the base to fit, you simply slide it up against the blade. This is a real plus for shops that have multiple saws or perhaps even, multiple blades (i.e. thin kerf and regular kerf).

For pure mitering, the SmartMiter (like the Dubby) is hard to beat. Since typically the workpieces we miter are relatively narrow, the SmartMiter will do the job, regardless of its 13" width limitation. I am very impressed with the tool. With that said, $260 (plus $30 for the clamp) is a lot to spend for crosscut jig. But if you're looking for a precision tool to cut picture frames and similar workpieces, the SmartMiter works. (On the other hand, the Dubby is also perfect for picture frames and has the advantage of handling workpieces upwards to 24" wide and unlimited length).

Let me add another thing. When it comes to positioning devices (Incra and Jointech), Jointech beats Incra in virtually every way. I realize that Incra was the first to market with precision incrementing for the woodworking industry, but the Jointech products are simply better. The Jointech products are stronger, the leadscrew technology, center finder, SmartFence, and ergonomics of the Jointech products simply surpass Incra. Plus, the Jointech people are a lot more open to suggestions, comments, and the like. Man was I impressed with the Jointech products! I was really amazed. Never having been one to get on the precision incrementing band wagon, I am now lusting after a few Jointech products.

Links to Other Crosscut Fixtures

• Highland Hardware Crosscut Fixture
  
  
• Wood Magazine Crosscut Sled
  
  
• In-Line Industries (The Dubby)
  • Click Here For Detailed Review
  
  
• Woodhaven Miter Sled and Cutoff Box
  • Click Here For Miter Sled
  • Click Here For Cutoff Box
  
  
• Delta Sliding Miter Sled (Model 36-205)
  • Click Here For Picture (Thanks WoodOnline)
  
  
• The Jointech Smart Miter
  • Click Here For Picture
  
  
• The Incra Miter 5000
  • Click Here For Picture
  
  
• Biesemeyer Sliding Table
  • Click Here For Picture

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