Introduction

I purchased the Osborne EB-2 several years ago. The EB-2 was accurate and it had a lot of good features, but since it did not provide a means for user calibration, I was afraid that one fall on the floor would do it in.

About nine months ago, David Osborne asked the fine people at Excalibur Tools to provide us with an Osborne EB-3 for our use and review. At the time the deal was that I would return it following the review.

I have used the miter gauge extensively for the past nine months and have been delighted with it. Osborne and Excalibur have resolved all of the problems/issues that I described for the EB-2. In fact I liked the EB-3 so much that I hung up our JDS Accu-Miter for good, and asked David Osborne if I could keep the EB-3.

According to the Excalibur web site, the EB-3 is based on the original patented design by David Osborne. Evidently, David Osborne developed the EB-3 in collaboration with Excalibur and Excalibur manufactures it in their Toronto Canada plant. The EB-3 is sold by Excalibur and a number of retailers.

Street Price:	$150.00 - $190.00
Suggested Retail:	$190.00
Manufacturer:	Osborne Mfg Excalibur Tools
Retailers Include:	Excalibur Tools Amazon Northwest Power Tools

Product Description

Unlike conventional miter gauges, the Osborne EB-3 has no center mount protractor head. Rather it employs a unique triangle design that should make the Osborne EB-3 more rigid than a conventional miter gauge. A recent magazine article disputes this claim, but in my experience with the EB-2 and the EB-3, there is no flex whatsoever in the fence. It takes a few minutes to get used to using the EB-3 due to its triangular shape and the fact that the triangle components reside six-seven inches behind the handle. However, the handle placement balances the tool and provides good control. To adjust the angle of the fence, loosen the angle clamp knob and slide the black angle bar to the desired setting. The most commonly-used angles have a detent drilled into the bottom of the black angle bar. To "select" a detent, depress the spring-loaded plunger you arrive at the desired angle. Simple and direct. There are nine pre-set degree detents. In addition to the 0° detent, detents are located at +/- 45°, 30°, 22.5° and 15°.

The unique design of the EB-3 stretches out the angle lines (-45° to +45°) for a distance of approximately twelve inches. The large area between degree marks makes for spot-on precision and allows you to "sneak" up on and sight in an angle with ease. The angle lines are engraved on the black angle bar and filled with white paint, so they are easily read in almost any type of light.

The fence is a hefty aluminum extrusion that provides a square flat surface, 24" long and 2-1/2" tall. The fence extension is attached to two 3/8" diameter, 20" rails that slide and clamp inside the fence extrusion. The extension allows you to position the included flip stop approximately 41" from the blade end of the EB-3 fence.

You square/calibrate the EB-3 to the miter gauge slot/blade using a unique eccentric bolt that attaches the angle arm to the guide bar. We'll discuss setup and calibration of the EB-3 a little later.

The fence slides laterally left and right so that you can place it as close to or as far from the blade as you like. I generally run it about 1/4" from the blade. This feature does not require tools, thus you're more apt to adjust the fence close to the blade after setting it to an angle (as you adjust the angle the fence moves away from the blade). Just remember to move the fence back when you return to 0°!!!! Also, the EB-3 is easily reversible (without any tools), meaning you can use it with either the right or left miter slot. DEMO: Click here to see how it's done!

You have the option of installing an abrasive strip (included with the EB-3) on the fence face that significantly reduces the chance a work piece will slip while cutting. The miter guide bar is 21-1/2" long and made from plated cold-roll steel. The bar includes three surprisingly long expansion slots, each with its own Allen-head screw for adjusting the fit of the bar to the saw's miter gauge slots. The leading end of the bar includes a T-Slot retaining washer to prevent the miter gauge from tipping up and off the saw table. A decal is applied to the miter bar containing the sides/angle table.

Setup and Calibration

Setup
The EB-3 arrived pretty much assembled albeit folded up in its container. The basic setup consisted of unfolding it, placing the angle bar into its outer brace, and attaching the handle. The instructions suggest the proper setup (slide and stop components) of the flip stop for right/left orientation of the EB-3.

I used the EB-3 for several months before applying the non-slip abrasive strip. To apply the strip, remove the fence from the rest of the unit, clean the fence face with a suitable cleaner, and apply the strip to the fence. I applied the strip to the fence face with the fence lying flat on the workbench. I positioned the strip approximately 1/16" from the bottom edge of the fence as per the instructions. I then trimmed the excess using a box cutter. Though perhaps not the best method, I applied the strip to the entire fence, including the extension piece and then cut through the strip at the junction between the fence and the extension. The whole setup process including applying the abrasive strip should not take more than 10 to 15 minutes.

Miter Bar Adjustment
Adjusting the miter bar fit to the table saw's miter slots is a matter of tightening the three Allen-head screws inside the expansion slots with the included hex key wrench. I had a problem getting the fit correct on our PM66 as the width of the left miter channel on our saw is not perfectly the same front to back. A problem that has plagued us since we purchased the saw. Consequently, I ended up backing out the adjustment screws a hair to allow it to slide freely front to back.

Calibration
Squaring the miter gauge with the saw blade/miter slots is facilitated by the eccentric adjustment at the rear pivot point of the EB-3. First, loosen the eccentric lock screw using the provided hex key wrench and rotate the eccentric adjuster using a 3/4" wrench. Turn the adjuster clockwise (< 90°) or counter-clockwise (> 90°) to square the fence to the blade.

It took me five minutes to get it close, and another five to ten minutes to get it perfect. I tested the accuracy of the EB-3 using the Five Step technique discussed elsewhere on our web site. I realize that all miter gauges can be adjusted for square, but I found the eccentric adjustment on the EB-3 provides a finer adjustment for sneaking up to perfect alignment, rather than the hit and miss adjustments of typical miter gauges.

Squaring the Fence to the Saw Table
I have received a report from a EB-3 user that his fence was not square with the table. This is a common problem with many miter gauges. In fact, of all the miter gauges I have purchased and reviewed, the Accu-Miter and EB-2/EB-3 were the only gauges that were square with the table. When setting up one of our miter gauges recently, I was told by the manufacturer to shim the fence and mounting plate until it was satisfactory. I passed this on to the EB-3 user and he was satisfied with the fix.

What I Like About the Osborne EB-3

• Once calibrated to our PM66 table saw, the EB-3 cut accurately at the 0° and 45° settings. I immediately used the EB-3 to cut four pieces for a picture frame and the joints were perfect. Over months of use I have found the angle pre-sets (detents) to be accurate--I never think twice about setting the gauge to the indicated angle and cutting.
  
  
• Sighting in an angle on the angle bar could not be easier. The angle lines are widely spaced apart and the white lines on black bar are easy to read, even with my failing eyes. I find that rulers and other measuring tools that use a satin black background and white lines are easier to read than their shiny silver, black-lined counterparts.
  
  
• The ease of calibration made possible by the eccentric / cam adjuster. This unique adjuster allows you to fine tune the miter gauge. The adjustment on most miter gauges is a hit (literally) and miss affair requiring you to perform the repetitive nudge, tighten, and check routine. Conversely, the EB-3 allows you to easily tweak the calibration until it's perfect.
  
  
• The Osborne EB-3 is the only miter gauge I know of that has a Lifetime Warranty.
  
  
• The EB-3 is robust yet light. It has a good feel to it, the handle is positioned correctly to provide good control. I like the feel of the aluminum fence, though that sensory pleasure was in part taken from me after I applied the abrasive strip.
  
  
• The abrasive tape/strip added to the fence face is a great idea. It is your choice whether or not to install it. I used the EB-3 for several months without and then applied it. I prefer the EB-3 with it applied.
  
  
• I appreciate the 42" crosscut (with stop) capacity. The extension fence on rails is unique to the EB-3 and is a great value-add.
  
  
• I prefer the smooth and tall fence face of the EB-3 to the channeled Incra and JDS fences.
  
  
• I appreciate the engineering details applied to the EB-3, for instance:
  
  
  • The two bolts used to fasten the fence to its support plate are attached together by thin metal plate. Thus when attaching the fence you don't fumble about trying to line up two loose bolts to their respective holes.
    
    
  • Rubber "O" rings are placed between the fence and the plates that lock down the extension to give the lock a soft feel when tightening it.
    
    
  • Unlike our Incra miter gauge, you can adjust the fence laterally and reverse the miter gauge without any tools.
  
  
  

What I Don't Like About the Osborne EB-3

• I miss the option of having my cake and eating too. The EB-2 was designed so that you could work with a smooth aluminum face or the abrasive face. The EB-3 design and construction forces you to make a decision--go smooth or abrasive--you cannot have both. Of course, no other big name miter gauge offers you the option. I chose the abrasive strip.
  
  
• Attaching an auxiliary fence to the EB-3 is not an easy proposition. Consequently, I use the original PM66 miter gauge for operations requiring auxiliary fences. To be fair, the EB-3 is not alone in this regard. Our JDS Accu-Miter and other miter gauges make mounting an auxiliary fence difficult.
  
  
• On the EB-2, the ruler-scale is attached to the face of the miter gauge--lining up the stop to the EB-2's scale is a piece of cake. On the EB-3, a slanted recess is provided on the rear of the fence. This keeps the scale out of harm's way. Unfortunately, it makes it more difficult to line up the stop to the scale. On the EB-3 you line up the leading back edge of the stop to the ruler. It works, but the bolt head securing the stop to its sliding clamp gets in the way of the line of sight. It works, but....
  
  

The Bottom Line

The Osborne EB-3, like its predecessor, is perfectly accurate. The machining, feel, and overall quality is excellent. I purchased and have used the JDS Accu-Miter for many years. I also have purchased and used the Incra 2000, Incra 1000, Woodhaven Standard Miter Gauge, and the Osborne EB-2. The Osborne EB-3 beats them all. Each gauge has its favorable and not so favorable features. But for ease of setup/maintainability, use/feel, capacity (41"+), repeatability, ease of reversing the fence from one miter slot to the other, and so forth, the EB-3 has the others beat. The only thing I would change is the location of the ruler/scale.

I take some heat now and then with my perceived anti-miter gauge stance. It is true that I have purchased a number of miter gauges, only to be disappointed by their performance. After tweaking and replacing components on our JDS Accu-Miter, it still does not function perfectly. The Incra 2000 was a huge disappointment. The Incra 1000, though better in my opinion than the Incra 2000, still gets little use in our shop. In regards to the EB-3, I use it as frequently as our Dubby crosscut sled and shop-made sleds. It is the first miter gauge that over a long period of time, I feel comfortable setting to an angle and cutting my work pieces without "checking" for fit. So, compared to other miter gauges, I give the EB-3 a FIVE, compared to other crosscut devices (i.e., crosscut sleds), I give the EB-3 a FOUR. But for heaven's sakes, if it is good enough for Norm and the New Yankee Workshop........

Rating:

out of 5!

Crosscut Tips

In a corresondence with David Osborne, I asked him for his two cents worth in regards to crosscutting with a miter gauge. Here are his responses....

Should I pass the miter gauge and work piece all the way through/past the blade?
My personal preference is to run the guide forward until it completely clears the blade plus a little. If the work piece is large or oddly shaped I will shut the saw off and wait till the blade stops before I move the cut off or the guide.

Should I return the miter gauge to the starting point with, or without the work piece?
The abrasive face on the fence will keep the work piece stationary. There is no creeping or lateral movement of the wood. This allows you to return the guide with the wood if you choose to do so. There is no need to fear the blade on the return of the guide.

Should I use of the flip stop for all cuts to reduce/prevent slippage?
No. The abrasive face absolutely prevents slippage. The stop is primarily for repeat cuts.

What is the guideline for maximum width of material to be cut with the miter gauge?
The EB-3 has three expansion slots in the guide bar. This allows the operator to draw the guide back off the table to the point where the fence is at the edge of the table while maintaining perfect fit in the slot. Once the fence of any guide comes off the table things are less secure. If extra wide material is frequently cut you may want to consider an infeed table extension. If cutting a wide piece at a steep angle causes the fence to hang off the table consider inverting the piece and the angle, and cutting it "face down".

What are other techniques that might be overlooked by novices and pros alike?
Woodworkers are generally a pretty smart crowd. Everyone has techniques that work for them. One common procedure that some people don’t get is the simple process of putting the guide on the table. Many people try to feed the guide in from the front of the saw which can bind and be difficult. The best way is to set the guide flat on the table so the T-slot washer sticks out over the out feed end of the table and allow the bar to drop into the slot then draw it back toward you.

Table saw slots are not a precision machining process in manufacturing. The depth and width vary significantly from saw to saw and even between the two slots on the same table. One thing that is unique to our guide is the result of our design. Most guides have a protractor head at one end of the guide bar. When you put it on your saw the bar drops down into the slot and rests on the bottom of the slot. Most slots are slightly deeper than the bar is thick so they sit just below the top of the table.

The fence on our guide is closer to the center of the guide bar so that when you put the Osborne on your saw it rests on the bottom of the fence and the guide bar is actually suspended in the air above the bottom of the slot. If the slot is significantly deeper than the bar thickness the space below it can allow the guide to rock a bit. When the T-slot washer exits the out feed end of the table, the heel of the bar can go down, raising the nose of the bar. This is only an issue when the slot is deep. The quick fix is to lay a strip of glide tape (Teflon or UHMW or the like) in the bottom of the slot to eliminate the space.

Calibrating Crosscut Devices

There are numerous ways to calibrate a crosscut device to be square with the blade. Unfortunately, using a carpenter's square or even a machinist's square does not always cut it. There are three methods that are regarded as being the best practice methods for squaring a crosscut device (miter gauges, sleds, and sliding tables). Click Here to read about and view demonstrations of three methods for calibrating crosscut devices.

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